{"id":52336,"date":"2026-11-01T10:50:58","date_gmt":"2026-11-01T10:50:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/siratek.net\/index.php\/tutorials\/relay-module-safety\/"},"modified":"2026-11-01T10:50:58","modified_gmt":"2026-11-01T10:50:58","slug":"relay-module-safety","status":"publish","type":"siratek_tutorial","link":"https:\/\/siratek.net\/index.php\/tutorials\/relay-module-safety\/","title":{"rendered":"Switching Bigger Loads with a Relay"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/p>\n

What it does<\/h2>\n

A relay is a mechanical switch operated by an electromagnet. A small current through the coil pulls a set of contacts together, and those contacts can carry far more current than the coil ever touches, on a circuit that has nothing electrically to do with the one controlling it.<\/p>\n

That last part is the whole point. It is how a 5 V microcontroller switches a 12 V pump, a 24 V solenoid, or a lamp.<\/p>\n

The module adds the parts that make a relay usable from a logic pin: a transistor to drive the coil, a flyback diode across it, indicator LEDs, and screw terminals for the load.<\/p>\n

Safety first, and this one is not boilerplate<\/h2>\n

Every other tutorial in this library works at 5 V, where a mistake costs a component. A relay is the first part where a mistake can cost a great deal more, so read this section before you wire anything.<\/p>\n

This tutorial uses a low-voltage DC load throughout.<\/strong> A 12 V lamp, a small pump, a buzzer, a motor on its own supply. Everything below is written for that, and that is what you should build first.<\/p>\n

On switching mains.<\/strong> The contacts on this part are rated for it, and people do use these modules that way. It is not a beginner project and it is not something to improvise on a breadboard. Mains work needs, at minimum: a proper enclosure with no exposed conductors, correct cable and terminal sizing, strain relief, switching of the live conductor rather than the neutral, and in most cases a qualified electrician. In Ghana the supply is around 230 V, which is enough to kill. If you are not confident you can meet all of that, switch a low-voltage load instead, or use a commercial mains-rated smart switch and control that.<\/p>\n

This module gives you no isolation between the Arduino and the coil.<\/strong> Look at the board: there is a transistor and a diode, but no optocoupler and no separate JD-VCC<\/code> supply jumper. The coil circuit shares the Arduino\u2019s ground. The relay\u2019s contacts<\/em> are still isolated from everything on the low-voltage side, which is the protection that matters for the load, but the control side is not isolated from your board or from the computer the USB cable is plugged into. Modules with an optocoupler and a separate coil supply exist and are the right choice for anything near mains.<\/p>\n

Never breadboard the load side.<\/strong> Breadboard contacts are rated for a fraction of an amp and are not meant to be touched while live. Load wiring belongs in the screw terminals, tightened properly, with the insulation reaching the terminal.<\/p>\n

Treat the terminal block as live whenever the load supply is connected<\/strong>, regardless of what the relay is doing or what your code says.<\/p>\n

Before you begin<\/h2>\n

Required parts and tools<\/h3>\n
    \n
  • An Arduino Uno or compatible board.<\/li>\n
  • One 1-channel 5 V relay module, low level trigger. This is Siratek product 3308.<\/li>\n
  • Three jumper wires.<\/li>\n
  • A low-voltage DC load and its own supply. A 12 V lamp and a 12 V supply is a good first choice.<\/li>\n
  • A small screwdriver for the terminals.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    What is on the board<\/h3>\n
      \n
    • A blue TONGLING JQC-3FF-S-Z<\/strong> relay with a 5 V DC coil. The case is printed with its contact ratings; read the ones on your own part rather than trusting a figure from a tutorial.<\/li>\n
    • A three-pin header<\/strong> marked VCC<\/code>, GND<\/code>, IN<\/code>.<\/li>\n
    • A three-way screw terminal block<\/strong>: normally open, common, normally closed.<\/li>\n
    • Two LEDs.<\/strong> One is marked PWR<\/code> and lights whenever the board has 5 V. The other follows the relay, so you can see the state without a meter.<\/li>\n
    • A transistor, a resistor and a flyback diode. No optocoupler, as noted above.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

      Normally open and normally closed<\/h3>\n

      The three screw terminals are:<\/p>\n

        \n
      • COM<\/strong>, the common pole, usually the middle one.<\/li>\n
      • NO<\/strong>, normally open. Not connected to COM while the relay is at rest; connected when energised.<\/li>\n
      • NC<\/strong>, normally closed. The reverse.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

        \u201cNormally\u201d means with no power on the coil<\/strong>, which includes every moment before your sketch starts, while it is uploading, and after a crash.<\/p>\n

        That makes the choice a safety decision rather than a convenience. Ask what should happen if the Arduino loses power, and wire the load to the terminal that gives that answer. A lamp that should go dark goes on NO<\/code>. A ventilation fan that should keep running goes on NC<\/code>.<\/p>\n

        Low level trigger, which changes the code<\/h3>\n

        The Siratek part is a low level trigger<\/strong> module. IN<\/code> pulled LOW<\/strong> energises the relay; HIGH releases it.<\/p>\n

        This inverts what most example sketches assume, and it creates a specific problem at startup.<\/p>\n

        When the Uno resets, every pin is an input and floats. The module\u2019s IN<\/code> sees no clear HIGH, the transistor turns on, and the relay clicks closed before your sketch has run a line<\/strong>. It stays that way through the whole bootloader delay, roughly a second, and on every reset and every upload.<\/p>\n

        If the relay is switching a lamp, that is a flicker. If it is switching a pump or a heater, it is not.<\/p>\n

        The fix is one line, in the right order:<\/p>\n

        digitalWrite(relayPin, HIGH);  \/\/ set the state first\npinMode(relayPin, OUTPUT);     \/\/ then drive the pin<\/code><\/pre>\n
        Writing HIGH to a pin that is still an input sets the output register, so that the instant pinMode()<\/code> makes it an output, it is already HIGH. Do it the usual way round and the pin spends a few microseconds LOW, which is enough for the relay to click.<\/p>\n
        That does not cover the bootloader delay before setup()<\/code> runs, and nothing in software can. Where an unintended switch-on would be dangerous, wire the load so that de-energised is the safe state.<\/p>\n
        How much current the coil takes<\/h3>\n
        The coil of a JQC-3FF-S-Z draws somewhere around 70 to 90 mA at 5 V. That current comes out of whatever is feeding VCC<\/code>.<\/p>\n
        On USB power, with one relay and nothing else, that is acceptable. It is a large fraction of your budget, though, and two relays plus a display will not fit. See Powering Your Project<\/em> for working that out. A multi-channel relay board should have its own supply.<\/p>\n
        Pin reference<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
        Pin or terminal<\/th>\nConnect to<\/th>\nPurpose<\/th>\nNotes<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
        VCC<\/code><\/td>\nUno 5V<\/code><\/td>\nCoil and logic power<\/td>\nRoughly 70 to 90 mA when energised<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
        GND<\/code><\/td>\nUno GND<\/code><\/td>\nGround<\/td>\nShared with the coil circuit<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
        IN<\/code><\/td>\nUno D7<\/code><\/td>\nControl<\/td>\nLOW energises on this board<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
        COM<\/code><\/td>\nLoad supply positive<\/td>\nCommon pole<\/td>\nLoad side, screw terminal<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
        NO<\/code><\/td>\nLoad positive lead<\/td>\nClosed only when energised<\/td>\nUse for \u201coff when unpowered\u201d<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
        NC<\/code><\/td>\nNot used in this example<\/td>\nClosed when at rest<\/td>\nUse for \u201con when unpowered\u201d<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
        The load\u2019s negative lead goes back to its own supply\u2019s negative, not through the module and not to the Arduino.<\/p>\n
        \"A
        The contacts are isolated from the coil. The control side is not isolated from the Arduino.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
        Wiring steps<\/h2>\n
        Do the control side first, prove it works with nothing connected to the terminals, and only then wire the load.<\/p>\n
          \n
        1. Unplug the USB cable. Make sure the load supply is disconnected.<\/li>\n
        2. GND<\/code> to the Uno\u2019s GND<\/code>.<\/li>\n
        3. VCC<\/code> to the Uno\u2019s 5V<\/code>.<\/li>\n
        4. IN<\/code> to D7<\/code>.<\/li>\n
        5. Plug in the USB cable. The PWR<\/code> LED should light. Upload the sketch below and listen: you should hear the relay click, and see the second LED follow it. This is the test, and it needs no load at all.<\/strong><\/li>\n
        6. Unplug the USB cable again.<\/li>\n
        7. Wire the load: supply positive into COM<\/code>, the load\u2019s positive lead into NO<\/code>, and the load\u2019s negative lead back to the supply negative.<\/li>\n
        8. Tighten every screw terminal properly and check that no bare conductor is showing.<\/li>\n
        9. Plug in the USB cable, then connect the load supply.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
          Software and libraries<\/h2>\n
          No library is required.<\/p>\n
          Minimal working example<\/h2>\n
          \/\/ Siratek: switching a low-voltage load with a low-trigger relay module.\n\/\/ On this board, LOW energises the relay.\n\nconst int relayPin = 7;\n\n\/\/ Named so the code reads correctly whichever board you have.\nconst int RELAY_ON = LOW;\nconst int RELAY_OFF = HIGH;\n\nvoid setup() {\n  \/\/ Set the level before making the pin an output, so it never\n  \/\/ passes through LOW and clicks the relay on.\n  digitalWrite(relayPin, RELAY_OFF);\n  pinMode(relayPin, OUTPUT);\n\n  Serial.begin(9600);\n  Serial.println(\"Siratek: relay test starting, off.\");\n}\n\nvoid loop() {\n  Serial.println(\"on\");\n  digitalWrite(relayPin, RELAY_ON);\n  delay(3000);\n\n  Serial.println(\"off\");\n  digitalWrite(relayPin, RELAY_OFF);\n  delay(3000);\n}<\/code><\/pre>\n
          The two constants are worth keeping even though they look like noise. A high-trigger module needs only those two lines changed, and every other line in the sketch still reads the way it behaves.<\/p>\n
          Do not switch it quickly<\/h3>\n
          A relay is mechanical. Its contacts are rated for a large but finite number of operations, perhaps a hundred thousand under load, and each switch under current erodes them a little.<\/p>\n
          So a relay is for things that change state occasionally: a pump that runs for ten minutes, a light on at dusk. It is not for dimming, not for PWM, and not for anything that might chatter.<\/p>\n
          Chattering is the failure to watch for. A sensor reading sitting exactly on a threshold will switch the relay on and off many times a second, which sounds alarming, wears the contacts out quickly, and can damage the load. The two defences are hysteresis and a minimum dwell time.<\/p>\n
          \/\/ Siratek: switching on a sensor reading, without chattering.\n\nconst int relayPin = 7;\nconst int sensorPin = A0;\n\nconst int RELAY_ON = LOW;\nconst int RELAY_OFF = HIGH;\n\n\/\/ Two thresholds with a gap between them, not one.\nconst int turnOnBelow = 380;\nconst int turnOffAbove = 420;\n\n\/\/ Once switched, hold that state for at least this long.\nconst unsigned long minimumDwell = 10000;\n\nbool isOn = false;\nunsigned long lastSwitch = 0;\n\nvoid setup() {\n  digitalWrite(relayPin, RELAY_OFF);\n  pinMode(relayPin, OUTPUT);\n  Serial.begin(9600);\n}\n\nvoid loop() {\n  int reading = analogRead(sensorPin);\n\n  if (millis() - lastSwitch >= minimumDwell) {\n    if (!isOn && reading < turnOnBelow) {\n      isOn = true;\n      lastSwitch = millis();\n      digitalWrite(relayPin, RELAY_ON);\n      Serial.println(\"relay on\");\n    } else if (isOn && reading > turnOffAbove) {\n      isOn = false;\n      lastSwitch = millis();\n      digitalWrite(relayPin, RELAY_OFF);\n      Serial.println(\"relay off\");\n    }\n  }\n\n  delay(100);\n}<\/code><\/pre>\n
          The gap between 380 and 420 means a reading wavering by a few counts cannot flip the state. The dwell time means that even a large swing cannot cycle the load faster than once every ten seconds. Both are needed; neither alone is enough.<\/p>\n
          Expected result<\/h2>\n
          A click you can hear and an LED that follows it, three seconds on and three seconds off, with nothing connected to the screw terminals.<\/p>\n
          With a load connected, the same, plus the load switching. The relay should click once per change and then be silent. A buzzing or rapidly clicking relay means the coil is not getting a clean 5 V, usually because the supply cannot provide the coil current.<\/p>\n
          Troubleshooting<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
          Symptom<\/th>\nLikely cause<\/th>\nCheck or fix<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
          Relay clicks on at reset and during upload<\/td>\nPin floating before setup()<\/code><\/td>\nSet the level before pinMode()<\/code>; wire the safe state to the right terminal<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
          Logic inverted from the examples you have seen<\/td>\nThis board is low trigger<\/td>\nLOW energises; use the named constants<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
          No click at all, PWR<\/code> LED off<\/td>\nVCC<\/code> or GND<\/code> not connected<\/td>\nCheck both before anything else<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
          No click, PWR<\/code> LED on<\/td>\nIN<\/code> on the wrong pin<\/td>\nCheck against relayPin<\/code><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
          Buzzes or clicks repeatedly<\/td>\nCoil current beyond the supply<\/td>\nGive the module its own 5 V, grounds joined<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
          Arduino resets when the relay switches<\/td>\nSame cause<\/td>\nSeparate supply for the coil<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
          Clicks, but the load does nothing<\/td>\nLoad on NC<\/code> instead of NO<\/code><\/td>\nCheck which terminal you used<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
          Load is on when the Arduino is off<\/td>\nLoad wired to NC<\/code><\/td>\nThat may be what you want; decide deliberately<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
          Switches on and off constantly<\/td>\nSensor sitting on the threshold<\/td>\nAdd hysteresis and a dwell time<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
          Contacts stop working after a while<\/td>\nWorn by switching under load<\/td>\nExpected eventually; relays are consumable<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
          Anything at all unexpected on the load side<\/td>\nStop<\/td>\nDisconnect the load supply before investigating<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
          Next steps<\/h2>\n
            \n
          • Easier first:<\/strong> Powering Your Project<\/em>, for the current budget this module eats into.<\/li>\n
          • Related product:<\/strong> a multi-channel relay board, when more than one load needs switching. Give it its own supply.<\/li>\n
          • Next project:<\/strong> an automatic plant watering system, where a soil moisture reading switches a pump. Build it with a low-voltage pump.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
            Sources and attribution<\/h2>\n
            All text, wiring guidance and code in this tutorial are original Siratek work.<\/p>\n
              \n
            • The board described here, a single-channel low level trigger module with a VCC<\/code> GND<\/code> IN<\/code> header, a three-way screw terminal, a PWR<\/code> LED and a transistor-driven coil with no optocoupler, was read from the Siratek product photographs for item 3308, together with the TONGLING JQC-3FF-S-Z marking on the relay case.<\/li>\n
            • Arduino core documentation for pin behaviour at reset, which is the basis of the startup note.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
              Coil current and contact life are given as typical figures for this relay family and vary between parts; the reader is told to read the ratings printed on their own relay. The safety guidance here scopes the tutorial to low-voltage DC loads and is not a substitute for a qualified electrician where mains is involved. No third-party tutorial text, diagrams, photographs or code has been reproduced here.<\/p>\n
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